Measurements Required
1. Frock Length
2. Shoulder
3. Chest
4. Waist
5. Shoulder to Waist (Yoke Length)
6. Neck Round
Drafting Steps:
Front
0 – 1 = shoulder to Waist.
0 – 2 = 1/6 of Chest + ½” draw a line across.
0 – 3 = 1/6 of Neck Round + ¼”.
0 – 4 = Half of Shoulder.
0 – 5 = Same measurement of 0-3.
5 – 5a = Same measurement of 0-3 Draw a line downward and join 3.
Join 3 – 5 by Curve Line.
2 – 6 = ¼ of Chest Measurement + ½”.
1 – 7 = ¼ of Waist + ½”.
4 – 4a = Draw a Straight Line downwards connecting/perpendicular to line 2-6.
4 – 8 = Mark ½” Downwards for Shoulder Slope.
4 – 9 = Mark Midpoint of 4-4a.
9 – 9a = 1cm inside as shown in draft, to draw armhole curve.
Draw an Arm hole from point 8, by straight line joining 9a and curve line from 9a-6.
Back
Trace Front Pattern and Follow Below steps:
10 = Mark 1” Upwards from 5.
11 = Mark 1” Upwards from 8 and join 10 and 11.
From 11 draw a straight line downwards by joining 9 and join 6 by curve line as show in draft.
12 = Mark 1 ½” downwards from point 10.
13 = From the point 12 draw a straight line connecting to 0 -1 as shown in draft.
From the line 13-1 mark 1 ½” towards left side, draw parallel line. This is Allowance to attach Button/Hook/Zip.
Lower Part Skirt
A – B = Full Length - (minus) Yoke Length.
A – C = 3 times measurement of the Waist circumference.
C – D = Same measurement of A-B.
Neckline Manipulaion
Neck can be change according to individual requirement by following the below steps:
Step 1: Measure neck deep fro Highest point of Shoulder and mark desired neck deep.
Step 2 : Measure Shoulder width from end as ahown in the image and mark accordingly.
Step 3 : Draw Neckline curve according to your requirement.
This same method can be followed to draw other neck shape as per individual requirement.
Points to Consider:
Fabric Required 44” width 1.5mtrs, if its 58’’ width 1mtrs.
First straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft.
Iron the fabric always to remove crease, prior to marking and place draft.
If you are a beginner, prefer making the Paper draft and then pin it to fabric.
References:
Winifred Aldrich - Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Bany Wear.
Carla Hegeman Crim - Pattern Making for Kid's Clothes.
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