Skirt is lower garment which fits to body at waist. skirts are made in different length based on the individual requirements. its is one of simplest garment comes with very least attachments or few parts sewn together. skirts can also be made in single piece of fabric without any seam. In this we have explained about basic skirt till knee. This basic skirt pattern are used to modify to other styles by using slash and spread technique.
Measurement Required
Full Length
Waist
Hip
Waist to Hip
Drafting Steps
Back
Square Down and Across from A
A-B = Hip Level
A-C = Skirt Length until Knee (Not a Fixed Measurement)
A-A1 = 1/4 Waist circ. -1cm
A1-A2 = Square up1cm
B-B1 = ¼ Hip Circ. – 1cm
C – C1 = Equal Measure to B – B1, using a curve join point A2 – B1 and join B1 to point C1(Side Seam)
Dart
D = ½ A-A1
D – D1 = Draw line Downwards 14 cm
E-E1 = From Point D move 1.5 cm for each side and join to point D, using a curve point E1 to point A2
Pleat
C – F = Square Left 4 cm for pleat
F – F1 = Square up 18 cm (not a fixed measurement) and connect points (see Diagram)
Front
Square down and across from A
A –B = Hip Level
A –C = Shirt Length until Knee (not a fixed measurement)
A-A3 = ¼ waist circ. + 1cm + 2cm for dart
A2 - A4 = Square up 1 cm
B - B2 = ¼ Hip Circ. + 1 cm
C – C2 = Equal Measure to B-B2 use a curve to join points A4 - B2 and point B2 to C2 (Side Seam)
Dart
A - D = 1/10 Waist circ. + 2 cm
D - D2 = Square Down 10 cm
E - E1 = From Point D Move 1 cm each side, join point E - E1 to point D using a curve join point E1 to A2
- stretch Fabric diagonally to align the warp & weft.
- Iron the fabric always to remove crease, prior to marking and place draft.
- If you are a beginner, prefer making the Paper draft and then pin it to fabric.
Sewing Guide
Additional Materials required
Micro dot Fusing for waistband.
Zip for side opening.
-Secure the all edges by overlocking using matching thread.
-Join the back parts together at 1/2" distance till slit opening. press it by facing seam to left side direction.
-Stitch darts on both front and back part.
-Attach zip on left side.[ take 8" zip open and keep the wrong side zip on right side surface of fabric and stitch. after this take back part and attach the zip in same manner].
- Turn back and stitch side seam from zipper end.[where you stopped stitch].
-Join the right side at distance of 1/2" for side seam.[right surface of the fabric faces each other]
-Finish hem line by folding edge 1/2" and turn it 1" inside and run edge stitch.
-Now fold the slit open inside and finish it with hand hemming.
-Attach Waistband from inside, stitch 1/2" for seam and turn up and fix hook on right side edge by 1/2" distance from end and place hook holder/eye on left side[ close the zip and mark the hook eye point and attach] fold the edge by 1/2" and run edge stitch on top of the skirt
-Press it neatly on all sides, slit and waistband attachment.
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