Women's Empire Line Dress Drafting Steps

Empire Line dress which has horizontal cut/seam , falls below bust or just above the waist line. which is fitted at bodice till the seam joint and rest will flow over body. from this seam joint other fullness/ design feature can be added. empire dress suits well to all body types. it looks great for pear shape body types. this style emphasis waist line by adding curve effect at waist to those who have rectangular body shape.

Fabric like cotton jersey, linen, brushed fleece, polyester fabrics[Georgette, crepe, etc]

MEASUREMENT REQUIRED

Full Length

Shoulder

Chest

Waist

Hip

Arm Hole

Sleeve Length

Upper arm

Sleeve round

Neck Deep

Lower Bust Length from Shoulder

Bust Point

Bust Distance

FRONT PART

0-1 =Full Length + 1”. Draw a Line Across.

0-2 =Hip length from HPS. Draw a Line Across.

0-3 = Arm Depth, 1/6th Bust + 1” Draw a Line across.

0-4 = Natural waist Length + ½” Draw a Line across

0-5 =1/6 of Neck Round Measurement + ½”.

0-6 =½ of Shoulder Measurement + ½”.

3-7 =½ of Shoulder Measurement + ½” and join point 6.

3-8 =¼ Bust measurement + ¾ “.

6-9 =Mark ¾” and draw diagonal line by joining 9-10.

0-10 =1/6 of Neck Round Measurement + ½”.

5-11 =Same measurement of 0-10 and draw line upwards by joining 10

11-12 =1 ¼ at 45^ angle, draw a neckline curve by joining points 5-12-10.

4-13 =¼ of waist measurement + ½”. Draw line Upwards by joining point 8.

0-3A =HPS to Lower Bust Measurement and draw a line across by joining line (8-13) mark 3B

2-14 =¼ Hip Measurement + 1” Draw a line by joining point 13.

15-16 = Mark ½ “upward to draw curve line by joining line [1-15]

17 =½ of 2-15 for bottom shape.

7-18 =1” upward as per Draft.

19 = Midpoint of 6-7

19-20 = ½ “inward.

3-A =½ Bust Distance draw a line downwards by joining line [2-14]

and mark B and mark ‘C’ at waist line [4-13] intersection.

A1 = Shoulder to Bust point

D&E =Mark 1/2” from ‘C’

F =Mark 1” below Bust Point and Join D & E

G =Mark 5” down from ‘C’.

BACK PART

0 - 21 =1 ¼ “back Neck drop.

0 - 22 = Same as front 0 to 10 measurement.

21 - 23 = Same Measurement of 0-22

9 - 8 =Draw an outward armhole curve line.

SLEEVE PART

1 - 2 = sleeve length+1”.

1 - 3 = 1/8th bust-3/4”.

3 - 4 = 1/4 bust-3/4”.

2 - 5 = ½ of Sleeve round/Bottom measurement.

6 =the middle of 1 to 4 measure.

7 =½ of the 6 to 4 measure.

8 =the middle of 6 to 1 measure.

9 - 7 =3/4”.

8 - 10 = Mark 3/4" upward.

1 - 10-7-4 = Back armhole shape.

4 - 6-1 = Draw front armhole shape.

Some Points to consider:

Ø Fabric Required 2.5 Mtrs’ length & width of 44".

Ø When you are marking the pattern directly on fabric, stretch fabric diagonally to align the warp & weft.

Ø Iron the fabric to remove crease prior to marking and place the draft.

Ø if you are a beginner, prefer making the paper draft first, then pin it to fabric

Sewing guide

Additional materials Required

Micro Dot Fusing

-Start by stitching Darts on both panels of front and join together at a distance of 1/2''.

-Attach front and back shoulder by 1/2" distance as seam.

-finish the sleeve hem by using Binding technique.[ Cut fabric in Bias(45 angle) direction according to the sleeve open measurement with 1.25" width. keep this fabric on the sleeve and stitch at a distance of 1/4" and fold the edge and turn it inside completely including seam joint. run edge stitch by finishing sleeve hem.]

-Attach sleeve by marking center. keep the sleeve on top of the body and stitch at 1/2" distance and secure the edges with overlock stitch.

-Join the side of front and back on both sides at a distance of 1/2" seam allowance. Till bottom line.

-Finish bottom by folding 1/2" inside.

-Press it with steam iron.

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